Think about a cruise that is a little bit of a thriller. You understand the final area you will be visiting and the place the voyage will start and finish, however all the things else is up within the air. Would you e book it? In case your reply is sure, would you continue to roll the cube in case you knew it might value you $30,000?

I just lately launched into two totally different expedition voyages — a 10-nighter on Scenic Eclipse and a 14-night crusing on Seabourn Enterprise. Each had been Arctic sailings, with the previous specializing in the Norwegian island of Svalbard and the latter visiting Greenland and Arctic Canada. In addition to the area, what they’ve in frequent is their worth level — ranging from roughly $15,000 per individual or $1,300 per evening — and a slew of fixing day by day plans that hold passengers on their toes.

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So, what’s with the paradox?

Expedition cruises sail to distant areas of the world, usually the place bigger ships cannot go. The seas might be tough, and the climate usually adjustments at a second’s discover, significantly in areas just like the Arctic and Antarctica. As a result of many stops in these distant areas do not have docks, ships are compelled to tender passengers ashore with inflatable boats referred to as Zodiacs. When circumstances are unsafe for Zodiacs to function, the captain can determine to delay port calls, shore landings and shore excursions or cancel them fully.

Because the expedition group says on Seabourn Enterprise, if you are going to e book, the secret is “flexibility, flexibility, flexibility.” This is what I skilled on my two latest cruises so that you might be higher ready to roll with the punches in case you’re pondering of setting sail.

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What was deliberate

Scenic Eclipse

Scenic Eclipse floats behind a hunk of blue ice simply off of Svalbard. ASHLEY KOSCIOLEK/THE POINTS GUY

Scenic Luxurious Cruises & Excursions, which is thought for its upscale river cruises and land-based excursions, entered the expedition cruise scene in 2019 with Scenic Eclipse, its first expedition vessel. For its first stint within the Arctic following the business’s 2020 shutdown as a result of COVID-19 pandemic, it relied on suggestions from its first yr of crusing to supply a much less structured itinerary and to ensure it had backup plans in place for any adjustments that arose.

For this crusing, there was no pre-cruise signup for excursions, landings, hikes or Zodiac cruises, which meant that there was much less disappointment over missed occasions as a result of actions weren’t introduced till the day earlier than, when it was clearer what the circumstances can be.

Be aware the largely undefined schedule, which allowed for built-in flexibility:

  • Day 1: Longyearbyen, Svalbard (embarkation).
  • Days 2-10: Svalbard archipelago.
  • Day 11: Longyearbyen, Svalbard (disembarkation).

Seabourn Enterprise


Seabourn Cruises, which is even newer to the expedition market than Scenic, tried to supply a extra concrete itinerary pre-cruise. Nonetheless, it led to disappointment amongst a number of the passengers on my crusing. Lots of them are loyal repeat prospects of the road who opted to strive a cruise on Seabourn Enterprise, maybe not realizing it was extra open to last-minute pivots than the ocean cruises for which the road is basically identified.

As a result of the realm Seabourn Enterprise was crusing permits submarine dives and has precise cities that may be toured, the ship provided extra tour choices than Scenic Eclipse did, and so they had been in a position to be booked previous to embarkation. They included hikes, city excursions, kayaking, submarine dives, visits to canine sled camps and different actions. As a result of folks had been in a position to choose what they needed to join forward of time and get excited in regards to the choices they booked, they understandably had been dissatisfied when plans needed to change.

Be aware the quite particular schedule:

  • Day 1: Kangerlussuaq, Greenland (embarkation).
  • Day 2: Sisimiut, Greenland.
  • Day 3: Ilulissat, Greenland.
  • Day 4: Eqi Glacier, Greenland.
  • Day 5: Uummannaq, Greenland.
  • Day 6: Upernavik, Greenland.
  • Day 7: Pond Inlet, Canada.
  • Day 8: Dundas Harbor/Croker Bay, Canada.
  • Day 9: Beechy Island, Canada.
  • Day 10: sea day.
  • Day 11: sea day.
  • Day 12: Girl Franklin Island/Monumental Island, Canada.
  • Day 13: sea day.
  • Day 14: sea day.
  • Day 15: St. John’s, Canada.

What truly occurred

Scenic Eclipse

The previous looking cabin of Wanny Wolstad, the primary feminine trapper within the Arctic. ASHLEY KOSCIOLEK/THE POINTS GUY

Fortunately, by pure luck, the climate was uncharacteristically sunny throughout our voyage. As a result of the ship solely revealed the place we might be going a few day prematurely, after the crew had a greater concept of what the circumstances can be like, there have been solely a handful of adjustments, most of which occurred as a consequence of native wildlife sightings. At instances, we prevented deliberate stops as a result of polar bears had been close by, and it both wasn’t protected or we did not wish to disturb them. In different cases, we diverted to watch a number of pods of whales as they fed.

On at some point, we skipped a deliberate touchdown and moved on to plans B, C and D earlier than the expedition group lastly gave up and referred to as it a sea day, full with further trivia and lectures to maintain us busy. I used to be impressed that the group had contingency plans for its contingency plans’ contingency plans.

Each time attainable, various outside actions had been scheduled if we needed to skip those that had been initially on supply. Most frequently, they included Zodiac rides to view glacier ice, waterfalls or native animals like seals or polar bears.

Seabourn Enterprise


My Seabourn expedition was a special story. Most days, it was cloudy and chilly with considerably tough seas, making many of the deliberate submarine dives, kayak excursions and Zodiac sailings unimaginable for the expedition group to execute. It even affected the supply of sure land-based actions like mountain climbing.

For instance, in Ilulissat, Greenland — which I used to be keen to go to after listening to in regards to the wonderful glaciers there — a hike I signed up for was canceled. Once I tried to take a Zodiac into city later within the day, the craft solely made it midway earlier than the bridge radioed for all Zodiacs to return as a consequence of worsening circumstances. On a number of days, together with that one, the ship was compelled to depart early with a view to keep away from dangerous climate.

Later within the voyage, we skipped three stops fully due to tough water and ice that was quickly forming, growing the danger that the ship would get caught if we did not hold shifting. (Though the ship’s hull is rated as PC-6, that means it may well break by way of first-year ice through the summer time and fall months, my crusing was close to the tip of the season, when thicker ice had begun to kind.) The timing was unlucky, because the canceled calls had been blended in with 4 deliberate sea days, that means we unexpectedly spent seven straight days — half of the cruise — confined to the ship.


Seabourn fell somewhat quick when it got here to filling the unused time created by the cancellations. On scheduled sea days, the expedition group deliberate for downtime with submarine excursions and lectures. However on sudden sea days, the group didn’t placed on further actions to fill the time that will in any other case have been spent exploring ashore. Passengers needed to discover their very own enjoyable with puzzles and board video games, in-cabin motion pictures, studying, exercises within the small health heart or journeys to the principle lounge for scoops of gelato.

The saving grace was the wildlife we noticed alongside the best way, together with a herd of musk oxen, three polar bears and several other whales. The expedition group made bulletins to alert passengers, and the captain maneuvered the ship for best viewing. Nonetheless, there have been no Zodiac sailings provided to get us nearer.

Backside line

The “discovery group” on Scenic Eclipse — which incorporates expedition guides, naturalists, geologists, botanists, animal specialists, kayak leaders, bear scouts, photographers and extra — numbers practically 30 folks. ASHLEY KOSCIOLEK/THE POINTS GUY

It is vital to notice that adjustments are depending on circumstances; favorable ones are sometimes dumb luck and cannot be predicted prematurely. One in every of my sailings had glorious circumstances practically the entire time, whereas one had way more clouds, fog and wind than it did sunshine. The presence or lack of animals can even make or break a crusing, significantly if there’s additional time to kill as a consequence of schedule adjustments.

As a result of climate within the polar areas might be unpredictable, it’s best to all the time count on that adjustments will happen. You may also take into account reserving in the midst of the season, quite than in the beginning or finish, when your ship may very well be extra prone to encounter tough climate or ice.

Any expedition cruise ship value its salt will make use of a stellar expedition group full of specialists in topics that vary from wildlife to geology and know-how. When plans are canceled, they’ll possible discover a totally different place to go to, substitute extra iffy actions — like submarine dives and kayaking — with much less dangerous ones like Zodiac sailings, make an additional effort to identify animals for viewing or supply lectures on their areas of experience.

Your ship can even home an leisure workers that may supply impromptu trivia competitions or late-night dance events, which assist to go the time.

In case you’re planning to sail, carry a way of journey and a few actions like studying supplies, enjoying playing cards or an iPad with pre-downloaded TV exhibits or motion pictures you’ve got been that means to observe.

When you have your coronary heart set on a selected port go to, touchdown website or tour, an expedition cruise to the polar areas won’t be for you. However in case you’re in a position to take adjustments as they occur and luxuriate in no matter comes your manner, one among these voyages can present an thrilling, enriching and once-in-a-lifetime journey alternative.

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